K= Katrantzou Mary… Of Course!

Mary Katrantzou Spring Summer 2014
Mary Katrantzou has built her name on hyper-coloured trompe l’oeil prints (stamps, foreign money, and decorative interiors are just some of her subjects) but rewind to last winter, and she dived head first into moody hues of black and grey. It was a smart move because it proved she could do more than just colour-saturated pattern – she could do abstract silhouettes too, and in any case, those signature prints popped back for resort.
Mary Katrantzou Spring Summer 2014

For spring summer 2014 this time it’s shoes as fetish. Enlarged detailed images of gentleman’s brogues in polished mahogany leather with punched detailing and lacing; trainers with flashes of colour and vinyl inserts; and evening mules densely embellished. 
Mary Katrantzou Spring Summer 2014
There was so much going on here – even in a single dress, let alone the entire collection – that it’s hard to know where to begin. There were sleeveless bikers with scuba zips, cropped or elongated, edged in rubberised leather and bonded. Cocktail mini dresses were engineered around the body, bursting with pleats or with explosions of origami-like folds at the bust. Katrantzou collaborated with the embroidery house, Lesage, searching its archive for pieces to distort and super size by 200 per cent. 
Mary Katrantzou Spring Summer 2014
She printed the embroideries onto silk and then embroidered and embellished on top, creating a highly worked 3D effect. It was joyous, upbeat and fantastically feminine, but then, we knew she was capable of all of that before we set eyes on this collection – which was mesmeric, no doubt – but with print copyists everywhere, sat poised at computers, there was just a desire in the air to see the next chapter. Because one thing is for certain, this is a designer who isn’t short on ideas. 
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